Fine Heirloom Sewing, Smocking and Hand Embroidery

"Baby will be well and smiling in little garments made by Mother, Auntie, Grannie and loving friends!"

Please join me as I teach the old fashioned techniques and skills needed to sew baby clothes. You will find lessons that start at the very beginning and take you step by step as we sew little baby clothes together. May you find much joy and pleasure in making them.
It's easy and it's fun!!

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Friday, August 13

Daygown Sew-Along Lesson Three

Be sure you have marked the Sleeve Pleats onto your fabric.
We are making View 2 from our pattern Embroidered Raglan Daygowns but we are making the sleeve from View 3.  The Sleeves have little pleats instead of gathers. Go to View 3, Step 3 in your pattern Instruction Guide.  I didn't write on the instructions that you are stitching the pleats from the wrong side of the fabric, so you might want to pencil that in.
Remember to knot the thread just inside the seam line, then stitch to the end.  (like you did at the neck when stitching the facing)
Fold the fabric on the Pleat Fold Line (right sides together) and stitch on the Stitching Line.  I put little Dots on my Fold Lines so I could tell them apart from the Stitching Lines on my sleeve.
Stitched Pleats.
I used the DMC #50 thread and #11 Sharps needle. I waxed my thread.
The pleats give a tailored look to the sleeve and are especially appropriate for Baby Boy's as well as girls. 
 Following my pattern instructions, I pressed the pleats and stitched them in place.

Sewing the Sleeves to the Daygown
Front and Back.
Here you see the sleeve between the Front and the Back of the Daygown.
The sleeve will be sewn to the Front and Back in a French Seam.
Lay out all your garment  pieces just as they will be sewn together.  This will help you know how the pieces need to be sewn together and not get them mixed up. The seams will be stitched using a French Seam.  Please click on French Seam Lesson and read the entire Lesson.  Refer back to it as needed when stitching your seams.  There are also French Seam Instructions in your pattern instructions (under the heading  Sewing Techniques). 
When you are stitching seams by hand, you lack the presser foot and guide plate on the sewing machine that help you keep your seams straight.
I recommend you mark 1/4" along the  fabric edge.  You will stitch on this line for the first seam in your French Seam. And your seams will all be straight.
Sleeve and Back are pinned wrong sides together, ready to stitch.
Be sure you are sewing the BACK of the sleeve to the BACK of the Daygown!
Because the seams are stitched with a French Seam, I find it easiest to sew all the pieces wrong sides together  first. Then, go back and sew all the seams  right sides together to finish the French Seam.  It helps to keep me from being confused about which seams go where.
In this picture I have sewn wrong sides together, trimmed, turned fabric to right sides together  and am now sewing right sides together in a 1/8" seam.
After I have sewn all the seams  wrong sides together, I go back and finish the seams one at a time. Do not trim until you are ready to stitch a seam. You will follow the French Seam Lesson.

Then press all the seams and staystitch the neck edge 1/8" away from the raw edge.

"Many women exclaim regretfully when they see machine stitching on a baby's garment.  Many of the finest baby dresses that are French seamed have the first seams stitched on the machine and the second seams done by hand.  This is an ideal way because the machine stitching gives strength to the seam and allows it to hold better in laundering, and to all appearances the dress is entirely hand made."
How to Make Childrens Clothing- The Modern Singer Way.  Copyright 1927

No one will ever know , unless you tell!!

Now, baby clothes made entirely by hand  are very durable, especially French Seams, so you must remember the source above...A Sewing Machine Company!!)

Question for today - Where in your house to you sew?  Sewing Room, kitchen,  Special closet space?  And what one thing would you change about it? 

Now, it's my favorite time.
Tea Time!!

Gingerbread!! And my favorite, Earl Grey tea.

All Designs Are Copyright Protected copyright 2010 Jeannie Baumeister


Aunt Honey said...

I sew on the machine in my sewing room, and my do all my hand sewing and smocking in our family room, so I can be with my husband at the same time!I would love to have a huge sewing room, like a 2-car garage, with built in cabinets and showcases, so I wouldn't lose my sewing room each time a son moves back home temporarily! Thanks for the gingerbread and tea!

Elisabeth Rose said...

Hi Jeannie,
I sew on my desk in my kitchen, which is the hub of the home. I can sneak in a few minutes sewing here and there and still keep an eye on the kids. I can even cook dinner while doing machine embroidery! What I would change is an easy question: I would like my kitchen/sewing area to be self-cleaning (then I'd have more time for stitching!).
I'm really enjoying this sew-along. Thanks for the great lessons!

Angela said...

I sew in my new sewing room, which was 'repurposed' from a garage storage room. The only thing I would want to change is the size - bigger would be better. I do hand sewing / smocking on road trips or in waiting rooms or at home in the family room.

Sherry Richardson said...

I do sewing in everywhere depending on how large the project. Hand sewing which is my favorite is either in my sitting area in kitchen or living room. I have windows in both places to see outside. Would love a sewing room that had lots of windows and major storage space so everything could be in one place. I love all the tips you give especially knotting off for seams. Loving this daygown and the gingerbread is a favorite also.

Michelle said...

Hi, Jeannie,
I just LOVE Fridays NOW!! I look foward to your next leson all week!! I hope you are already planning the next sew-a-long!!
I usually sew in the family room so I can be with my husband and watch the Braves games with him. When I am sewing a hand piece I take "parts" with me where ever I go so if I should have just a couple of minutes I can pull it out of my pocket and get in a stitch or two. I never leave home without something in my pocket!! The only thing I would change is to have MORE time to sew.
Thank you for all you are doing for all of us!!

cleona said...

I am blessed to have my own sewing room with lots of sunlight and storage room, which I seem to fill up. Thanks so much for the wonderful lessons.

Sewbusymor said...

I sew in many different spaces: my sewing room at the machine with all my 'stuff' nearby; my easy chair with another chest of drawers of 'stuff' nearby; outside on my deck when I can; and in my shoppe when I am there. I also sew when I am in waiting rooms, passenger in the car, or even on the beach with my toes in the ocean!! Thank you Jeannie...this is great! Karin

ChrisB said...

Good morning! I do my machine sewing in my sewing room (or sometimes I bring the machine to the kitchen table)...hand sewing and embroidery are done anytime and anywhere I get the chance!

Thanks for the gingerbread and tea. Have a great weekend!

Karen said...

I have the smallest bedroom in the house for my sewing space. To give you a sense of how small this room is: when the realtor showed us the house it had two twin beds against opposite walls with a small bedside table in between the two (touching the beds). There was not room for anything else, not even a small dresser. We used it as an office for my husband for the first couple of years but then he gave the room to me (bless him!) when I began sewing for my children on a regular basis. I would love a bigger room! I love the lessons, but I am far behind. I have several other MUST DO'S before I can even begin to try to catch up.

mydogbama said...

I do machine sewing in my sewing room that I designed my house around. Handsewing I mainly do in the car waiting on the girls to get out of school.

Becky said...

Hi. I'm excited to get the sleeves in today. This looks like fun. I love the look of the little pleats.

Since my mother moved in with me, I gave her our extra room for her sewing/computer room, and I now sew all over the house! I cut out in the dining room or kitchen, sew in the guest room or sunroom, and do handwork in the den where I have a good light - or anywhere I can. Between us, we keep a flurry of sewing (big mess) going all the time. Of course, I would one day like a room dedicated just to sewing because of the frustration of things scattered all over the house. And more time.

Robin Hart said...

I finally got my fabric out this week, and I have my pattern pinned ready to cut. A few lessons behind but hopefully catch up soon. I am currently sewing in the lodge room at the lodge. My sewing room is in the attic and is too warm this time of year. The only thing I would change about it is that I rarely have enough time!

M said...

Well today is just glorious, so I will be taking my stitching out to my comfy chaise in the garden. Now that is a recipe for a great day!

Jan said...

I share a sewing room with my mom and wish it was twice as big, but it suits our needs. I do most of my smocking in my bedroom or at work on my lunch break. I work in a fabric store, so I share with lots of customers my current projects. Have taught a few ladies how to smock. I am having lots of fun with the sew-along! Jan

Jean said...

My sewing room shares with our schoolroom; I have two daughters and we homeschool them. It's the larger bedroom, but it's awfully crowded! There are a bunch of bookshelves, the desk/tables to work on, all kinds of school stuff, then my sewing desk, a bookshelf of sewing books/magazines, boxes of fabric, and the ironing board. The closet holds fabric, mostly.

So this morning I sewed tiny sleeve pleats while the kids did grammar. :)

Jean said...

Oops, I forgot to say what I would change. I would add another bedroom to the house and have sewing in one space and school in the other!

Patti H in MS said...

What a lovely treat to enjoy Tea Time with you! You always have such beautiful settings! I have a very small sewing room that also has other necessities like a dresser and 2 closets. It is definitely my happy room. Thank you so much for the lessons - they're the best!

Unknown said...

My sewing room is a corner of a guest room. I would love to have a room just for sewing and have all built in cabinets including a cutting table high enough so I don?t break my back.
I have a question-I realized when I went to cut out my daygown I didn't have the right pattern. I am substituting Priscilla's Daygown. The 3/4 length sleeve is meant to be gathered. In the pictures you show it looks like the pleats are 1/2" starting at the center of the sleeve. Is this correct and how much space in between? It looks like the just lay next to each other. What is the total width if the sleeve edge before pleating? I am sure I can alter my pattern with a little bit of information. Otherwise I can gather the sleeve, but I love the look of the pleats. I also decided to sew my gown entirely by hand-it is really fun.

Jeannie B. said...

Dear Sarah, I am sorry you mistakenly used the wrong pattern. They are different patterns so , it is best for you to follow the directions of the pattern you are using. I am so glad you are enjoying sewing the pattern by hand!!

RebeccaM said...

I'm loving the lessons! I do my machine sewing in my upstairs sewing room that is furnished with a sewing desk and a comfortably high cabinet/cutting table that I designed and had custom-built. I do most of my handwork in a comfortable chair in our family room looking at my work through a large magnifying glass/lamp that stands on the floor beside my chair. I would make my sewing room larger if I could.

dlogan said...

Hi Jeannie,
I sew in a room above the garage. It has angled ceilings and is narrow. This is what I would change. BUT, I do feel blessed to have the space. I am looking forward to lesson 3! Darby

Cindy said...

Jeannie....I machine sew in the corner of our master bedroom. It is basically my desk with my machine on it. With four little ones I am happy to have this space. I do my hand sewing in the rocking chair right next to my sewing corner. I've rocked many a baby in this chair as well as stitched lots of sweet outfits for these same babies. If I could change something...I would like to be able to keep my ironing board up all the time. But space is a factor as well as safety issues with the little ones. Thanks again....I look forward to completing this lesson!

Denise-Ann said...

Hi Jeannie, haven't started yet, still waiting for kit and pattern. My hand sewing I do where ever I can or in my sewing room, which is some times a dumping ground for the family. Love the cake, any recipes?

Anonymous said...

hopefully when I can get caught up, I am going back and do this sewalong!!!
I have my sewing room in my son's former room. It is quite large amd there are lots of things I would change if I could, mainly THE WALLS!!! they are covered in a rough siding, not at all like my tastes. This would be such a huge undertaking, I have decided to live with it and try and make the best of it!!

Kristen B. said...

I sew in my sewing room/office. However, the machines moved to the dining room table this summer, so I could keep an eye on the kids better.

I would definitely add cabinets and counters to my sewing space. I think I would become organized then.

Virginia said...

Sorry I'm late...I didn't get to the computer yesterday.

My sewing room (the guest room) has been repurposed as the baby room so now I sew in a corner in my bedroom. Hand sewing/smocking takes place wherever I can get comfortable. And what would I change...someday I'd like to have a room all to myself for sewing but I don't see that happening for awhile. At least my husband is sweet about the ironing board being up all the time.

antcan said...

I have a sewing room. I would have another window if it were possible.

Unknown said...

I sew in my sewing room .... sometimes on the dining room table .... sometimes on a tray in the family room .... lol, in other words, where ever I am. In my sewing room, I would add more space so that I could keep my cutting table set up all the time along with the ironing board. Right now I have to take things up and down.
I am having so much fun following along. Sorry but I will always be a day behind...hope that doesn't matter.

Unknown said...

I sew in my sewing room .... sometimes on the dining room table .... sometimes on a tray in the family room .... lol, in other words, where ever I am. In my sewing room, I would add more space so that I could keep my cutting table set up all the time along with the ironing board. Right now I have to take things up and down.
I am having so much fun following along. Sorry I'm a day behind...hope that doesn't matter.

fran said...

Hi Jeannie,
I'm enjoying the lessons. I
sew in a small bedroom which we have made into a office/sewing room
where I have a counter and cabinets on one wall, computer desk, two sewing machine desks on the other walls and ironing board in the middle.Would be nice to have a larger area but I don't see that happening. Also like to do handwork on my back screened porch
in the warm months as I love the
natural light.

Georgette said...

Hi Jeannie,
My sewing room is in my son's previous bedroom (he's 34 now) in an old 150 year old farmhouse. I would love to have more windows to allow natural light. The windows I have are the long narrow ones with bubbles in the glass :)

Nell said...

I sew in my sewing room, which was a bedroom. I cut out on the dining room table, and do handwork in the living room, but for the most part, I'm in the sewing room. Very happy to have it too.
The thing I would change would be to make it neater and have more storage. I am a very messy sewer, with scraps and thread on the floor!

Susie B said...

As my girls grew up and moved out, I 'inherited' their rooms ~ so one for sewing and one for designing. Would love to knock down a wall and combine them so that when sewing friends are visiting, there would be room for us to sew together!

Debbi said...

I am incredibly fortunate. I have a large sewing room with lots of windows in this house. I have a beautiful antique dresser for some of my supplies that adds lots of charm and some huge IKEA wardrobes as well that adds lots of storage space. I am so blessed that I hate to request more but, given our warmer than usual summer, air conditioning would be nice in this room. I often do my hand sewing wherever my daughter is playing and, lately, in hotel rooms during her nap while we are traveling.

Emily said...

The whole house! Particularly Mama's and my bedroom for this project. Hmm, in Mama's room it would be a softer bed and in mine another foot of room around my desk....

Eileen said...

Hi Jeannie! I have a bedroom that is my sewing room. All machine work is done there and I do handwork in an armchair in my family room if I am at home, otherwise I have it at violin lessons, on my break at work, etc. The only thing I would change about my sewing room is to make it twice as big. My girls both have their machines in there also and it gets crowded with the 3 of us. But I would rather be crowded than to have them not want to sew with me. They are 9 and 12 and love to sew which makes me VERY happy!

wendy said...

Sorry, we're late but we were out of town for church.

We've been sewing mostly in the dining room and bedroom.

It would be nice to have a back rest.

Yummy looking gingerbread...Have you ever tried lemon frosting with gingerbread? We discovered last year that that can be quite

Gina said...

Thanks so much for doing this sew along! You are so generous.

I live in a 100 year old home and sew in the room we call our den. It is a very small L shaped room that was once a back porch. It is very narrow. But, I've managed to squeeze my sewing room/tv room/computer/office all in this space. I love it! The thing I would change is to make it a little wider, with more storage, and some insulation. It gets so cold in here in the winter!


RebeccaM said...

I have too much tension in my stitches. In an effort to prevent that, I had pulled in opposite directions from the top and bottom of the stitched area each time I pulled the needle through after a series of stitches. I suppose I could iron my seams before tying off a line of stitches but there surely is a better way.

Jeannie B. said...

Answer to Rebecca, go to this link that tells you about stitching the Running Stitch which is used for seaming.

It is very important to gently smooth out your fabric after each group of stitches. You don't want to be gathering the fabric when stitching a seam.

Unknown said...

Hi Jeannie and all! I have a quick question..has anyone ever used the prewaxed thread for handsewing? I generally use it for hems, buttons, and other general handsewing. It is wonderful. It actually is a little heavier, sz 80I think. I am using a piece of batiste for this project that I found in my stash. It is finer than pima batiste but not super sheer. I am using the prewaxed thread and it seems to be doing very well. I am behind, my grandchildren were here for a visit the last couple of weeks. This week will be my catch-up week! Happy sewing!

Unknown said...

Oh, I forgot to answer this week's question. I machine sew in an upstairs den in front of floor to ceiling windows that look out into the tree tops of my back yard. It is a great place to sew! Handsewing is one of several places in my home under an Ott light!, but my favorite place is also in the upstairs den under my magnification circle light. However, I recently asked Jeannie what she uses for "moveable" magnification? I just got my first pair of "Mag Eyes". They are wonderful also!! My veterinarian daughter who was visiting mentioned that she sometimes had used them in surgery! Why hadn't she told me about them before!!?? Probably because she can still sew with just her regular eyes, ha! You know the old saying, "The proper tools are everything." And I must admit, after the proper tools and the proper drink depending on the season or time of day, my handsewing is much better with my feet up! Any type of sewing is my form of relaxation. Enjoy your sewing week!

Jeannie B. said...

answer to Susan : A light weight pre waxed thread would is fine for hand sewing. I'm sure you had fun with your Grandchildren!

Unknown said...

I use to sew at the counter in my kitchen, but whe my oldest left home, my daughter and I turned her room into a closet/sewing room. I still would like to have a room all to myself for sewing and would love to have huge windows above my sewing table to look outside!!! Now that I am learning to sew by hand, I usualy sit in the recliner with my 4 year old pekinese Jackjack sitting beside me.

Pandy said...

Hi Jeannie My sewing room is everywhere. I have fabric, patterns,magazines,and notions in every room in my house. I'am an addict. I'm very overwhelmed when I see a pattern with black drawings on white or blue paper I get chills. Your patterns give me that feeling. I never had kids but I have more baby patterns than anyone needs. When my husband was in the navy at every duty station I worked at Jo-anns. so much fabric. If I could change one thing it would be myself I would sell everything except what I could use in my lifes time LOL LOL thanks love the tea and cake Your friend Pandy P.S the secound one would be to only hand sew stuff it's more peaceful.

RebeccaM said...

Hi Jeannie,
I begin each seam with sufficient waxed and ironed thread to complete the seam. Twice in this lesson I've had a problem that left me with not enough thread to complete the seam. How do you recommend ending and starting over in a single seam? Or do you recommend removing the thread and beginning the seam again?

Jeannie B. said...

Answer to Rebecca: When your thread runs out, simply tie off where you are. Tie back on and finish the seam. I usually use 18"-20" of sewing thread and it rarely stitches the entire seam. So, you are doing fine!

BarbaraB said...

Hi Jeannie,
I hope I am not repeating myself, but now that I am officially signed in, guess I can make my comment. Thanks for your encouragement to join you late. I think I will have plenty of time to catch up with my leg in a cast - to hand sew anyway, since I can't get to the machine.
I am in South Carolina and so excited to have a baby girl on the way after three grandsons. You can smock for boys but only so long.
I do have a dedicated sewing room as we live in an old historic home which we have renovated ourselves/ Since we haven't gotten the formal living room finished, the sewing machines live there.
Now that I am confined to the bed or easy chair with my foot propped up, I will do my sewing there for awhile.

RebeccaM said...

When you are in the middle of a seam and need to tie off and begin with a new thread, I would really appreciate knowing how you handle it.

dlogan said...

Hi Jeannie,

Love the sleeves! One of pleats, on both sleeves was slightly bigger, but I corrected this. Was it suppose to be bigger? Blessings, Darby

Patti H in MS said...

Hi Jeannie: Do you think it is ok to press where you've marked the pleats with the MarkBGone blue washable marker?

Jeannie B. said...

To Rebecca: I am thinking you want to know how to tie a knot in the fabric. And how to tie a knot to continue with a new thread. I will take a picture and post it tomorrow.

To Patti: I do press over the blue pen marking but some pens might react different to an iron, so I would not tell anyone to press over the blue marking just in case yours doesn't come out!! You can simply finger press the fabric. The cotton does a great job staying where you finger press it.

Pat C. said...

Sorry I'm late, Jeannie, I was having trouble with the Google account. I do my machine sewing in my sewing room. It's great to have a dedicated space, but it's in the part of the basement with no windows. I would love to have windows. I do my handwork in the kitchen which is full of light or on the screen porch when weather permits.

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