Fine Heirloom Sewing, Smocking and Hand Embroidery

"Baby will be well and smiling in little garments made by Mother, Auntie, Grannie and loving friends!"

Please join me as I teach the old fashioned techniques and skills needed to sew baby clothes. You will find lessons that start at the very beginning and take you step by step as we sew little baby clothes together. May you find much joy and pleasure in making them.
It's easy and it's fun!!

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Tuesday, November 10

Lesson 6: Attach Bias Binding to Neck of Daygown

Today we are going to bind the raw edge of the daygown neck with a strip of bias.  This technique is known as Bias Binding.   Follow the directions on your pattern instruction sheet under Daygown View 2.  We will be using  Step  4. Neck Edge in our Lesson today (we are saving Step 3 for next time).  We have previously cut out our neck binding.
  Click on pictures to enlarge.

Spray starch bias strip and gently press into a curve. 
Press the neck bias into a curve.  This will help the fabric lie smoothly around the neck edge. 

Use plenty of pins to keep the raw edge of the bias binding even with the daygown neck edge.
Neck Bias is pinned to the neck edge of the daygown  (right sides together and raw edges even) with 1/4" extending on either side of the neck edge.
Use the Straight Stitch Foot for more control.
Stitch the bias binding to the neck, removing pins as you stitch.  The seam allowance for the neck is 1/4".  Use a short straight stitch (L 2.0).  Stitch another straight stitch 1/8" away (toward raw neck edge).  This second stitching line  will help to have an even neck binding.  Follow along and you will see how.

Trim away excess seam allowance along outside of second stitching line (toward raw neck edge). 
The extra stitching line is a guide for trimming the seam allowance evenly.  It is much more difficult to  omit this step and just try to eye-ball as you trim.
Press the bias up toward the neck edge.

View of the wrong side of garment after the bias has been pressed up.
Turn under the 1/4" of bias that was extending on either side of the front.

Fold the bias over the seam allowance, turning under the raw edge of bias and pin.
Fold the bias binding over the seam allowance to the back of the daygown, carefully turning under the raw edge of bias.   It might be a good idea to pin the bias at the center back and each front to keep bias from shifting.  If the bias shifts as you pin and stitch it, there will be ripples along the finished neck binding.
  Hold the pinned bias binding over your finger to stitch. See how it is held in place with your thumb and finger.

Take a nip of the white daygown fabric, then slip the needle under the bias binding.
To stitch the folded bias binding to the gown, take a nip of the daygown fabric, right where the machine stitches are  then move needle over slightly as you pick up a nip of the bias binding.  Pull the needle through the fabric snugly to your left.  Continue around the neck edge.

Perfecto!  Nice and even Bias Bound neck for Priscilla's Daygown!


Gigi said...

Jeannie, When you fold the extended l/4" back . . . and get ready to stitch, do you stitch the ends where you turned it back or just the actual neckline--do you know what I mean? Thanks.

Jeannie B. said...

Gigi, if I am understanding you correctly: After you have turned the ends back and folded the bias over to the wrong side you will stitch the bias to the neck. I also stitch the ends of the bias at the front in a little tiny stitch slipped under the fabric to hide them as I stitch the ends of the bias together. Hope that answered your question.

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